celeste-developer-teases-next-game-with-a-‘vibe-reveal’

Celeste developer teases next game with a ‘vibe reveal’

The developer of indie hits Celeste and Towerfall has unveiled its next game: Earthblade. There aren’t many details about the game just yet, but Extremely OK Games billed Monday’s news as a “vibe reveal,” taking the wraps off the game’s title, a poster, and a song from the game.

You can see the poster and the game’s logo (designed by Pedro Medeiros) and hear the song (composed by Lena Raine) in a teaser video posted on Twitter.

Earthblade Vibe reveal! ( sound on!)

A 2D explor-action game in a seamless pixel art world. The next release from the Celeste team, coming 20XX. pic.twitter.com/ceAM80PEaG

— Extremely OK Games (@exok_games) April 19, 2021

We might be waiting a while for the actual release of the game. Extremely OK Games has only officially listed a vague “20XX” release date, and the studio’s Maddy Thorson said in Monday’s announcement blog that “it sounds optimistic to say out loud that Earthblade could be released within 5 short years of Celeste.” (Celeste, if you were wondering, came out in January 2018.) “The truth is that we don’t know how long it will take, just that it will take as long as it takes (and that it will take a long time),” Thorson added.

We might also be waiting some time for more news about the game. “While making Celeste, we basically tweeted out whatever interesting-looking thing we were working on day-to-day, when we were in the mood for sharing,” Thorson said. “But an air of mystery lends itself particularly well to this project, so we’ve opted to save it all up for a big reveal that will hopefully blow your socks off. It’ll probably be a while before you get more information about Earthblade.”

While you’re waiting for Earthblade, you should play Celeste if you haven’t already. It’s really good.

facebook’s-clubhouse-competitor-is-coming-this-summer

Facebook’s Clubhouse competitor is coming this summer

Facebook is going all in on audio. The company announced multiple products on Monday that emphasize voice content over text, images, or video. The products will be released over the next few months and, in some cases, will start with a limited set of people.

Most notably, Facebook is indeed launching a competitor to the buzzy social audio app Clubhouse with a feature called Live Audio Rooms, which will be available this summer. It’ll first roll out to groups and public figures as a test, but it will eventually make its way to Messenger, too, so people can hang out with friends. Users will be able to record their conversations and distribute them, and eventually, people can charge for access to these rooms through either a subscription or one-time fee.

To get people to join, Facebook says it’s introducing an Audio Creator Fund to “support emerging audio creators.” All of these conversations can also be turned into “Soundbites,” a forthcoming feature that allows people to create and share shortform audio clips along with an algorithmic feed to promote them. Think TikTok, but with audio clips.

The Soundbite creation tool will let people put effects on their voices.
Image: Facebook

Soundbites will live within the broader News Feed. Users will be able to record them in a separate tool within Facebook, which the company describes as a “sound studio in your pocket.” In a chat with Casey Newton, the author of Platformer and a contributing editor at The Verge, Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg equated Soundbites to Reels, Instagram’s TikTok competitor, but for audio.

He also added that he likes audio over video or images because it allows people to multitask and host longer, nuanced conversations.

“The high-level picture here is that we think that audio is, of course, also going to be a first-class medium, and that there are all these different products to build across this whole spectrum,” Zuckerberg said.

Facebook also plans to take on a bigger role in podcasting. The company says it’ll start recommending shows and episodes based on people’s interests and that people can comment on them and recommend them to friends. The company says 170 million people on Facebook are connected to a page that’s linked to a specific podcast, and more than 35 million people are members of fan groups around podcasts.

Facebook wants to support podcasts with direct monetization.
Image: Facebook

Zuckerberg says a partnership with Spotify is forthcoming, too, which will bring the company’s player over to Facebook, letting people stream music and podcasts from their News Feed. Zuckerberg emphasized that this feature is for music. But still, Facebook users will be able to share Spotify podcasts and let people listen without having to leave the Facebook world — they just have to link their accounts.

“Our ambition has always been to make Spotify ubiquitous across platforms and devices — bringing music and podcasts to more people — and our new integration with Facebook is another step in these efforts,” a Spotify spokesperson said in a statement. “We look forward to a continued partnership with Facebook, fueling audio discovery around the world.”

Finally, Facebook’s tipping system, Stars, will be coming to Live Audio Rooms as well as for individual creators and public figures.

How serious Facebook is about audio and whether users actually want it over other formats is still unclear. On one hand, the audio industry is hot right now, with most major tech companies wading into the broader podcasting industry. Clubhouse and other audio startups have also made live audio a popular way to interact, and already, multiple big platforms have integrated the format into their apps.

On the other hand, live audio has clearly found its moment during the pandemic, when everyone’s been starved of human interaction and mostly confined to their homes. Podcasting offers edited, on-demand conversations, which people have enjoyed for years, but whether the live formats will survive remains an open question. Facebook has also routinely gone all in on a format, only for it to languish. It went for longform video with IGTV but has since pivoted to a focus on Reels. It launched and subsidized Facebook Live content, which has since mostly fallen by the wayside. The same could happen for audio, but Facebook is clearly using its size to try to make its mark on the industry.

fujifilm-x-t3-vs-x-t2:-what’s-the-difference?

Fujifilm X-T3 vs X-T2: What’s the difference?

(Pocket-lint) – When the Fujifilm X-T2 arrived back in 2016, we thought it set a new benchmark for mirrorless cameras. Since then we’ve been spoiled with the likes of the Panasonic Lumix G9 and many other compact system cameras.

In 2018, Fujifilm came back with a bang: the X-T3 brought a new sensor, new autofocus and 4K 60fps video capture that set it apart from its X-T2 cousin. Below we breakdown the key differences between those two. But if you’re looking for the even newer X-T4 then go read our review here.

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Fuji X-T3 vs X-T2: Design & Layout

  • X-T3: A little deeper (58.8mm) than X-T2 (49.2mm) due to eyecup and grip
  • Both cameras: Full manual control dials, Fujifilm X mount lenses
  • Optional battery grip is different for each camera
  • Both cameras: Weather resistant build

At a glance, the X-T3 and X-T2 are one and the same. But they’re a slightly different size, which means if you want to use an accessory battery grip then you’ll need to buy for the specific camera. X-T2 users will be disappointed that an X-T3 will require a new grip.

Otherwise, the layout and operation is similar: there’s full manual control, all the shutter/aperture/ISO/exposure compensation dials you could need, and that old skool design aesthetic.

The X-T3 does shrink the exposure compensation dial to avoid it getting accidental knocks, while the toggles around its dials are larger for easier adjustment. There’s also a dioptre lock on the X-T3 which was lacking previously.

Fuji X-T3 vs X-T2: Viewfinder, Screen, Performance

  • X-T3: 0.5 inch, 3.69m-dot OLED electronic viewfinder
  • X-T2: 0.5 inch, 2.36m-dot OLED electronic viewfinder
  • Both cameras: 3.0 inch, 1040k-dot, tri-adjustable LCD (X-T3 adds touchscreen)
  • X-T3: 1.5x autofocus speed improvement over X-T2 (Fujifilm claims)
  • X-T3: 2.16m phase-detection pixels offer edge-to-edge autofocus (X-T2 has a limited selection area)

Mirrorless cameras have gone from strength to strength in recent times, with electronic viewfinders good enough to rival traditional optical ones. The X-T2’s already decent 0.5in OLED finder remains the same size (magnification) in the X-T3, but the new camera ups the resolution by over 50 per cent. It’s the same finder as found in the Canon EOS R.

Regarding the rear screen, both cameras offer a tri-adjustable fit, meaning the LCD panel can be pulled out for waist-level or overhead work in either portrait or landscape orientation. Most competitors can’t handle this vertical orientation. However, we found this method of control a little fiddly to use, which is a setback. The X-T3, like the X-H1, adds touchscreen – which was lacking from the X-T2.

When it comes to speed, the X-T3 also ups the autofocus ante with a claimed 1.5x speed improvement over the X-T2. The biggest change is the full edge-to-edge autofocus system, though, which offers a mammoth 2.16m phase-detection pixels right across the whole sensor for precision autofocus anywhere within the frame (it offers 425 AF areas, compared to the X-T2’s 325). Even the newer X-T4 doesn’t really elevate its autofocus beyond the X-T3’s capabilities.

Fuji X-T3 vs X-T2: Image Quality, Speed, Video

  • X-T3: X-Trans CMOS IV sensor, 26-megapixel resolution
  • X-T2: X-Trans CMOS III sensor, 24-megapixel resolution
  • X-T3: 11fps burst shooting at full resolution
  • X-T2: 11fps with optional battery grip only
  • X-T3: 4K video at 60fps / XT-2: 4K 30fps

Core to the X-T3 is its X-Processor and X-Trans CMOS sensor, both of which are in their fourth generation guises (compared tot he X-T2’s third-gen). This brings greater processing speed, able to handle the slightly higher resolution of the newer camera.

In terms of burst speed, the X-T2 was never a slouch, capable of up to 11fps at full resolution. However, you had to have the optional battery grip attached to achieve that. With the X-T3 you do not: it’s 11fps capable out of the box (and it’ll even hit 30fps with a 1.25x crop and electronic shutter).

Another big benefit of this X-Processor is the readout speed means the X-T3 can cater for 4K video at 60fps straight to the camera’s internal SD card. At the time of launch no other APS-C sensor camera could do this. Furthermore, the X-T3 offers up to a 400Mbps data rate with H.265 compression and 24-bit stereo sound support.

Fuji X-T3 vs X-T2: Conclusion

  • X-T3: £1,349 body only (at launch)
  • X-T2: £1,399 body only (around £1,249 at time of writing)

The X-T3 is a savvy replacement for the X-T2. It’s faster, more adept at focusing, will deliver similar image quality at a slightly higher resolution, and will appease videographers too. And all for a price that’s actually less than the X-T2 was at launch.

Our suggestion would be to go with the newer model and all the extras that brings (unless the X-T2’s price really plummets). Of course, with the X-T4 being launched since, in 2020, there’s an even newer generation to consider – but, on balance, if you can find the older model in stock then picking it up for a bargain price makes heaps of sense.

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Writing by Mike Lowe.

asus-rog-delta-s-gaming-headset-review:-high-quality-sound-for-pc,-switch-and-ps5

Asus ROG Delta S gaming headset review: High-quality sound for PC, Switch and PS5

(Pocket-lint) – There aren’t a great many high-resolution gaming headsets out there, but the devices that do exist can make a real difference to your gaming experience. That extra audio range provides more immersion and also helps with things like hearing footsteps in competitive shooters. 

The Asus ROG Delta S sports a high-resolution Quad DAC (digital-to-analogue converter) and MQA technology that promises “true to life” audio. So on paper it should be fantastic, but is it? We’ve been gaming and listening to find out. 

  • Best PC gaming headsets: The best wired, wireless and surround sound headsets around

Lightweight comfortable design with RGB

  • Detachable microphone
  • Lightweight 300g frame
  • Braided 1.5m USB-C cable, 1m USB 2.0 adapter
  • ROG Hybrid ear cushions / protein leather cushions with fast-cool memory foam padding

The first thing that struck us about the Asus ROG Delta S upon wearing it for the first time was the comfort. This headset comes with a flexible headband and earcup design that extends nicely over the head and sits in a satisfying way over the ears. But more importantly, it sports D-shaped ergonomic ear cushions, with a choice of either a protein leather or ROG Hybrid finish backed by fast-cool memory foam padding.

Pocket-lint

Both these ear cushions are included in the box, giving you a choice of what to use – but they’re equally comfortable in our mind. The protein leather cushions do a better job of blocking out external noise though, which means you can focus on the sound. 

The D-shaped cushions fit nicely over the ears and they’re both deep and wide enough to not put unnecessary pressure on your ears either. This, combined with the nicely padded headband and the lightweight over ear design, result in a headset that’s comfortable to wear all day for work and then into the evening for gaming. 

Comfort and convenience go hand-in-hand with this headset. As standard it has a USB-C connection, which means you can use it with your Android phone or Nintendo Switch and still get great sound. Alternatively, there’s an adapter that converts it to USB-A with ease, meaning you can connect it to even more devices. The detachable mic also gives you the choice of whether you use the provided one or opt for something external. 

  • Best microphones for video calling, podcasting and streaming

On the outside of the headset there’s a couple of RGB lighting zones on each earcup: a ring around the outer plate and the ROG logo. This lighting can be adjusted within the Armoury Crate software – there’s a few different effects including static, breathing, strobe, colour cycle and, of course, rainbow. The headset itself also has a hardware button to set it to three different modes – on, off or soundwave. Soundwave makes the lights respond to your voice when you’re talking, which might appeal to streamers.

Pocket-lint

One thing we were impressed with is the RGB lighting works even when plugged into a smartphone, which is a fairly unusual feature. So yes, you can have RGB on the go with this headset. If you really want to show off your passion for gaming when outside the house. But there’s the option to turn it off too if you don’t want to look like a mobile disco.

Satisfying high-resolution audio

  • 50mm Neodymium magnet drivers
  • 20Hz-40KHz frequency response
  • Hi-Res ESS 9281 Quad DAC
  • MQA rendering technology
  • 24-bit, 96KHz sample rate
  • Virtual 7.1 surround sound
  • Custom audio profiles

The main selling point of the Asus ROG Delta S is the inclusion of the Hi-Res ESS 9281 Quad DAC and MQA rendering technology (which stands for ‘Master Quality Authenticated’). This tech means that with Tidal Masters recordings you can enjoy some seriously satisfying sound quality.

Pocket-lint

We thoroughly enjoyed listening to music this way on a Google Pixel 5. The audio is rich, warm, and has a superb range to it. If you’ve never heard hi-resolution audio before, you’ll soon notice new elements to your favourite tracks that you’ve never heard before. 



Best USB-C headphones for Android phones 2021


By Dan Grabham
·

That same logic applies to gaming too. Plug the headset into a PC, set the 24-bit/96KHz sample rate in Windows sound settings, tweak the equaliser (EQ) in ROG Armoury Crate and get your game on.

Suddenly you’ll find a wider audio range than you’ve heard before. This is great as it often means you can pick up on important sounds more easily. The footsteps of enemies in games like Rainbow Six Siege or Warzone, for example, are much easier to hear and discern their direction from within the game world.

That said, we did feel like this headset oddly isn’t as bassy or as rich as other high-res headsets we’ve tried. Strangely, music is richer than when gaming. And though you can adjust the EQ settings and sound profiles within Armoury Crate, we just feel like it lacks some of the richness we’d expect at this price point. 

That said, the virtual surround sound is good and combined with high-res audio it delivers great positional awareness. This headset is also insanely loud. So if you feel like you struggle to hear with other headsets then the ROG Delta S won’t disappoint. 

AI-powered mic?

  • AI-noise cancellation 
  • Unidirectional pick up pattern
  • 100Hz to 10KHz frequency response
  • Noise gate, perfect voice, other settings in Armoury Crate

The Asus ROG Delta S has a flexbile, detachable unidirectional microphone included in the box. This mic offers AI-powered noise cancellation that’s designed to block out external noise and help keep your voice in focus. 

We weren’t overly impressed with the mic on this headset, though, but it’s far from the worst we’ve tried.

You can adjust settings for noise gate, perfect voice and the AI noise-cancellation in the Armoury Crate software. But we found our voice was captured more clearly when we didn’t use those settings. This is going to depend on your environment of course, but the quality of the audio can certainly be tweaked in various ways with ease.

Verdict

The Asus ROG Delta S is a comfortable and easy-to-wear gaming headset that sounds fantastic when listening to high-res music on Tidal.

However, for our ears the audio lacks depth when gaming. It’s not as rich or as bassy as we’d like, but there are plenty of settings to play around with and tweak to your preference.

The included microphone is also not as good as, say, that included on the Corsair Virtuoso – so we’d highly recommend a proper mic as an alternative.

All told, the Asus ROG Delta S is a mixed bag. We love that it works with multiple different devices – a benefit of that USB-C/USB-A connection option – and for music it’s absolutely fantastic. But it’s just not quite as on point for gaming audio.

Also consider

Pocket-lint

Corsair Virtuoso RGB

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A fantastic alternative thanks to a superior microphone and more connection options with 3.5mm, wireless and USB-A. It’s not as comfortable as the ROG Delta S, but is more impressive in a number of ways and also delivers high-res audio that’s fantastic on PC. 

Pocket-lint

Audeze Penrose

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This is a wireless version of the company’s Mobius headset. It features massive 100mm Planar Magnetic drivers and a broadcast-quality microphone. It also works well on PC and PS5 and offers 2.4Ghz wireless, Bluetooth connectivity and 3.5mm options too. 

Writing by Adrian Willings. Editing by Mike Lowe.

how-to-lube-switches-on-your-mechanical-keyboard

How to Lube Switches on Your Mechanical Keyboard

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

One of the big draws of mechanical keyboards is the sound. That resonant, thocky, clacky rhythm can only come from the movement of plastic against plastic, and it’s one of the big things separating mechanical keyboards from their membrane-centric brethren. Compared to a cheap keyboard, the sound of just about any mech is heavenly. 

But maybe you’re not so satisfied anymore. Perhaps you’ve started to notice other sounds–the pinging of little springs, or a scratching scrape-y sort of plastic sound that you don’t enjoy. Or maybe you caught your favorite streamer with a new custom mechanical keyboard that sounds absolutely stunning. How can yours measure up? Is there a way to make it sound better, or is it time to just buy a new board?

There is a way: you can lubricate your switches. Lubing switches is one of the most common and immediately effective aftermarket modifications done by mechanical keyboard enthusiasts, and it’s easy to see why: the process can make your switches sound better, deepening and clearing up those clacks and thocks; it can make them feel better, too, getting rid of any internal scratchiness and making the whole typing experience that much smoother. Lubing can also make the best gaming keyboards even better.

In case you’ve not seen this before, though, here’s an example. First, here’s a quick video of me typing on some stock, unlubed Cherry MX Red switches:

And now here’s another video, on the same keyboard, except now those Reds are lubed with Krytox 205g0 lube (and the springs with Krytox 105):

Lubing switches is delicate work, but it’s not hard to learn, and the rewards are huge. In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through it. My biggest recommendation, though, is to approach this with an experimental spirit, testing out switches as you work, seeing how they sound and feel. The right way to lube switches is, ultimately, the way that feels best to you.

What You’ll Need to Lube Switches

  • Switch Opener (I strongly recommend a metal one, the plastic and 3D-printed ones just aren’t stable enough in my testing)
  • Switch lube (The standard recommendation is Krytox 205g0 for linear switches and Tribosys 3203 for tactile, with some Krytox 105 grease for springs)
  • Switches
  • Small paint brush, preferentially 0 or 00 brush size
  • Plastic baggy
  • Jeweler’s Tool
  • Lube Station (these are optional, but handy)

Steps

1.  Remove your switches from the keyboard. If you have a hot-swappable keyboard like the Hexgears Impulse, you can pull the switches out with a simple puller. Otherwise, you’ll need to desolder your switches.  Or, if you’re feeling ambitious, you can desolder your switches from a more traditional soldered mechanical keyboard.  

Either way, these need to be loose switches–you could technically try to open up and lube switches while they’re installed in the keyboard, but you run the risk of breaking a lot of things.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

2.  Take the switches apart. To do this, grab your trusty switch opener. Now, if you look at your switches, you’ll notice tabs slotted into the sides of the switch, from the top housing into the bottom. On Cherry-style switches, these are two tabs, like a fork; on Kailh’s switches, they’re two big thick tabs that cover the entire sides of the bottom housing. And if you look at your switch opener, it should have two interior surfaces, corresponding to each style–one with two tabs facing upward, and one with four.  

Place the switch, right-side up, on the switch opener on the corresponding part, lining the tabs up with the tabs on the switch opener. Then, just press down on the stem and the top housing. This should press the tabs against the switch opener, causing the switch to pop open. It shouldn’t take a massive amount of force, but you might have to push a bit. Then, just pull the top of the switch housing off, and separate out all the components–the stem, the spring, the top housing, and the bottom housing. If you have a lubing station, put them in their corresponding spots. 

Note that this probably should not be done with clicky switches, as lubing clicky switches tends to remove their, well, click. But linears and tactiles will work just fine. 

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

3.  Lube the springs. I always like to do this first, because the process with springs is different than with the rest of the switch. There are two ways to lube springs: the painstaking way or the simple way. The painstaking way is to take your paint brush, lightly dip it into your lube of choice, and brush lube on your spring until it has a light, shiny coat. 

Or, you can bag lube them. This is my strong personal preference, as the results are good without being horribly tedious. To do this, place all the springs in a small plastic baggie. Then drip in a few drops of Krytox 105 grease, maybe 5 drops per 10-20 springs in my experience, though you can experiment to see what works for you. As with all lubing, the goal is to have a very light coating as even as possible. 

Now, close the baggie most of the way. When it’s mostly closed, blow into the opening, inflating the bag. Then close it up and shake it vigorously until all the springs are coated, 1-2 minutes. After that, you can empty the bag and place them in your lube station, or a bowl, or wherever you want. Often, you’ll have to untangle the springs, which you can do by gently turning them until they come apart, the way you take a key off a keychain.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

4. Lube the bottom housing. Once the springs are lubed, it’s time to get to the rest of the switches. You can do this in any order you want, but I prefer to start with the bottom housing. To do this, dip the tip of the brush gently in your lube — Krytox 205g0 for linears and Trybosis 3203 for tactiles is my go-to– and then wipe away the excess on the rim of the container. You want a light sheen of lube–if you can see the white globs of lube on there, you probably have too much. 

Now, brush one end of your brush along one of the interior sliders on the sides. Then, brush the other side on the other slider. Brush on each slider one or two more times, until the coating seems even — which means you’ll barely be able to see it. Always start with less lube than you think you might need, as you’ll be amazed what a little bit can do. And it’s a lot easier to add more lube than to clean it off. 

Finally, take what’s left on your brush — without dipping again — and swirl it around the reset of the plastic interior of the bottom housing, avoiding the metal leaf spring. I usually do this just once, as it’s not the most necessary place to lube carefully.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

5. Lube the stem. Now, you want to set the bottom housing aside, in your lube station if you have it. Take the switch’s stem, holding the cross-shaped part with your jewelry tool if you have it. Then, get some more lube on your brush, the same way you did last time. Apply a gentle coating and wipe off the excess. 

When that’s done, it’s time to lube the stem. Gently brush lube on the flat face of the stem, smoothing it out like you did before. Then use the same side of the brush to lube one of the slider sides. After that, you need to lube the face with the stem’s legs. 

These legs are what comes into contact with the switch’s leaf mechanism, actuating it. On a linear switch, these legs are smooth. On a tactile switch, they have bumps on them which provide the switch’s tactility. This means that, on a linear switch, you do want to lube the legs; on tactile switches, you absolutely don’t want to lube the legs, as doing so will reduce or outright eliminate the tactility. 

So, on a linear switch, gently brush lube on the legs and the flat space between them, brushing a couple more times to smooth the lube out. On a tactile, just lube that flat space, or avoid lubing that side of the stem entirely. Like all of this, it’s up to preference. After that, use the remaining lube on the remaining slider side. 

You can also, after this, run the brush over the pole at the base of the stem.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

6. Lube the top housing, if you want. Some people recommend lubing the interior of the top housing to reduce any plasticky sound or feeling you might get from the stem or leaf spring rubbing against the top housing. But in my experience, this is a pretty negligible problem and I usually don’t bother. 

If you do want to bother, do the same thing you’ve been doing — gently coat the brush with lube, remove the excess, and put a light clear sheen of lube on the plastic. 

7. Reassemble your switches. Congrats, you did it! Time to put those babies back together. Take the bottom housing, put the spring in its place, then put the stem in the spring, with the legs facing toward the leaf spring. Finally, snap the top housing back into place — the side with the writing on it usually goes over the leaf spring. 

8. Put your switches back in your keyboard. Send those switches home, either by snapping them into a hot swappable or soldering them in if not.

Now your switches should have a smoother feel and a different sound. Enjoy.